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Blue ambanja panther chameleon females

I have some blue ambanja panther chameleon females ready to go. These would make an awesome addition to any ambanja breeding project or just gorgeous pets. Females have brilliant characters but you must be aware that they can and will lay eggs regardless of any contact with a male.

As long as you raise them correctly (as they have been from hatch) they usually have no problems with this as long as suitable lay bin is provided. I am happy to help guide keepers through this process. As adults females are a beautiful pink with hints of purples they don’t get the bright colours of the males but this is reflected in their purchase price.

Detailed care information can be found here https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/panther-chameleon-care-sheet-2/

why not add one of these stunning blue ambanja panther chameleon females to your collection? You wont be disappointed they are already extremely beautiful

Blue ambanja panther chameleon female
stunning female
super cute
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How to look after a yemen chameleon

yemen chameleon

How to look after a yemen chameleon

Yemen chameleons are fairly easy to care for. Providing the correct lighting and supplements are very important.

If starting with a baby we recommend that these are not brought or sold at any less that’s 12 weeks, this is to ensure they are well established in feeding and are a good size and won’t get too stressed by the change to their new home. It’s best to start with a smaller enclosure for a baby then get a bigger enclosure once they’ve grown. A good size for a baby is a medium reptibreeze or equivalent. Mesh enclosures are good as they provide good airflow which allows for good humidity peaks and dips.

I would recommend t5 12% linear uvb over the mesh. For young chameleons the basking temperature should be around 28c which can be gradually increased to adult temperatures (32/33c for males, 30c for females) as they grow and are changed to their adult enclosures. Basking temperatures should be created with a nice white basking lamp not a coloured bulb or ceramic heater.

Males get considerably bigger than females so do require an xl sized reptibreeze or equivalent as their adult enclosure whereas a large size reptibreeze is fine for females.

Whilst providing a nice high level of uvb lighting it’s equally important to provide lots of foliage and shades areas where the chameleon can escaped the heat and lights if he wants. Care should be taken that the plants are safe for leaf eating reptiles as it’s quite common for Yemen’s to enjoy eating their foliage. This also means that they may (or may not) eat salad.

Humidity does not have to remain constantly high (this can cause respiratory issues) you should mist your chameleons enclosure, either manually or with and automatic system only twice a day . It should peak around 85-90% when you mist and then drop off to between 35 and 40% before misting is done again. Is also important to allow enough time for the enclosure to dry out before the lights go out as sleeping in wet conditions can also cause respiratory issues. Yemen’s are from a much drier climate than other species so keeping their enclosure wet is detrimental to their health.

Both uvb and heat lights should be run for 12 hours a day, then both off for 12 hours a day. Yemens do not require any supplemental heat at night especially not by coloured bulbs. A drop in temp at night is beneficial to their health.

Good supplements should be used on most feeds.. please see my supplement file for more details. Thanks for reading my yemen chameleon care sheet. https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/

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How to look after a panther chameleon

How to look after a panther chameleon

This how to look after a panther chameleon guide covers all locales of panther chameleon.

Panther chameleons are extremely popular and come from many different locales of Madagascar, depending on the locale they come from dictates their colour range.

Panthers are fairly easy to care for. Providing the correct lighting and supplements are very important.

If starting with a baby we recommend that these are not brought or sold at any less that’s 12 weeks, this is to ensure they are well established in feeding and are a good size and won’t get too stressed by the change to their new home. It’s best to start with a smaller enclosure for a baby then get a bigger enclosure once they’ve grown. A good size for a baby is a medium reptibreeze or equivalent. Mesh enclosures are good as they provide good airflow which allows for good humidity peaks and dips.

I would recommend t5 12% linear uvb over the mesh. For young panthers the basking temperature should be around 27c which can be gradually increased to adult temperatures (32°c for males, 30°c for females) as they grow and are changed to their adult enclosures. Basking temperatures should be created with a nice white basking

lamp not a coloured bulb or ceramic heater.

Males get considerably bigger than females so do require an xl sized reptibreeze or equivalent as their adult enclosure whereas a large size reptibreeze is fine for females.

Whilst providing a nice high level of UVB lighting it’s equally important to provide lots of foliage and shades areas where the chameleon can escaped the heat and lights if he wants.

Humidity does not have to remain constantly high (this can cause respiratory issues) you should mist your chameleons enclosure, either manually or with and automatic system 3-4 times daily depending on your environment. It should peak around 85-90% when you mist and then drop off to between 45 and 55% before misting is done again. Is also important to allow enough time for the enclosure to dry out before the lights go out as sleeping in wet conditions can also cause respiratory issues.

Both uvb and heat lights should be run for 12 hours a day, then both off for 12 hours a day. Panthers do not require any supplemental heat at night especially not by coloured bulbs. A drop in temp at night is beneficial to their health.

Good supplements should be used on most feeds. please see my supplement file for more details.

https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/

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Panther chameleon care guide

Panther chameleon care guide

This Panther chameleon care guide covers all locales of panther.

Panther chameleons are extremely popular and come from many different locales of Madagascar, depending on the locale they come from dictates their colour range.

Panthers are fairly easy to care for. Providing the correct lighting and supplements are very important.

If starting with a baby we recommend that these are not brought or sold at any less that’s 12 weeks, this is to ensure they are well established in feeding and are a good size and won’t get too stressed by the change to their new home. It’s best to start with a smaller enclosure for a baby then get a bigger enclosure once they’ve grown. A good size for a baby is a medium reptibreeze or equivalent. Mesh enclosures are good as they provide good airflow which allows for good humidity peaks and dips.

I would recommend t5 12% linear uvb over the mesh. For young panthers the basking temperature should be around 27c which can be gradually increased to adult temperatures (32°c for males, 30°c for females) as they grow and are changed to their adult enclosures. Basking temperatures should be created with a nice white basking

lamp not a coloured bulb or ceramic heater.

Males get considerably bigger than females so do require an xl sized reptibreeze or equivalent as their adult enclosure whereas a large size reptibreeze is fine for females.

Whilst providing a nice high level of UVB lighting it’s equally important to provide lots of foliage and shades areas where the chameleon can escaped the heat and lights if he wants.

Humidity does not have to remain constantly high (this can cause respiratory issues) you should mist your chameleons enclosure, either manually or with and automatic system 3-4 times daily depending on your environment. It should peak around 85-90% when you mist and then drop off to between 45 and 55% before misting is done again. Is also important to allow enough time for the enclosure to dry out before the lights go out as sleeping in wet conditions can also cause respiratory issues.

Both uvb and heat lights should be run for 12 hours a day, then both off for 12 hours a day. Panthers do not require any supplemental heat at night especially not by coloured bulbs. A drop in temp at night is beneficial to their health.

Good supplements should be used on most feeds. please see my supplement file for more details.

https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/

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Yemen chameleon care guide

Yemen chameleon care guide

Yemen chameleon care guide

Yemen chameleons are fairly easy to care for. Providing the correct lighting and supplements are very important.

If starting with a baby we recommend that these are not brought or sold at any less that’s 12 weeks, this is to ensure they are well established in feeding and are a good size and won’t get too stressed by the change to their new home. It’s best to start with a smaller enclosure for a baby then get a bigger enclosure once they’ve grown. A good size for a baby is a medium reptibreeze or equivalent. Mesh enclosures are good as they provide good airflow which allows for good humidity peaks and dips.

I would recommend t5 12% linear uvb over the mesh. For young chameleons the basking temperature should be around 28c which can be gradually increased to adult temperatures (32/33c for males, 30c for females) as they grow and are changed to their adult enclosures. Basking temperatures should be created with a nice white basking lamp not a coloured bulb or ceramic heater.

Males get considerably bigger than females so do require an xl sized reptibreeze or equivalent as their adult enclosure whereas a large size reptibreeze is fine for females.

Whilst providing a nice high level of uvb lighting it’s equally important to provide lots of foliage and shades areas where the chameleon can escaped the heat and lights if he wants. Care should be taken that the plants are safe for leaf eating reptiles as it’s quite common for Yemen’s to enjoy eating their foliage. This also means that they may (or may not) eat salad.

Humidity does not have to remain constantly high (this can cause respiratory issues) you should mist your chameleons enclosure, either manually or with and automatic system only twice a day . It should peak around 85-90% when you mist and then drop off to between 35 and 40% before misting is done again. Is also important to allow enough time for the enclosure to dry out before the lights go out as sleeping in wet conditions can also cause respiratory issues. Yemen’s are from a much drier climate than other species so keeping their enclosure wet is detrimental to their health.

Both uvb and heat lights should be run for 12 hours a day, then both off for 12 hours a day. Yemens do not require any supplemental heat at night especially not by coloured bulbs. A drop in temp at night is beneficial to their health.

Good supplements should be used on most feeds.. please see my supplement file for more details. Thanks for reading my yemen chameleon care sheet. https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/

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Supplement guide for chameleons

Supplement guide for chameleon

Supplements can be a bit of a minefield especially to people new to chameleons, so I put together this handy supplement guide for chameleons. These are the best supplements suitable for chameleons. That being said the type of uvb/natural sunlight the chameleon receives will affect one major factor of your supplementation routine. 

The factor that will be effected the most is the amount of D3 you will need to provide in your routine. 

If kept outside NO D3 supplementation is required, obviously in the UK its unlikely you will be able to keep your chameleon outside all year round so during the winter months you would need to incorporate some D3 to your supplement schedule.

If keeping your chameleon under T8 lighting you would need provide slightly more D3 in your routine than if your using T5 lighting. We do not recommend compact fluorescents for chameleons, these do not provide sufficient uvb for proper growth and self D3 production. In my view you want to provide the best lighting possible so your chameleon can make its own D3 and need less via supplementation, which is much healthier and more natural for them.

I don’t like to say to people just use this supplement without giving reason for doing so, I personally with my panthers and yemens use 3 supplements I will list these first and give a reason for why I use each one, I have fine tuned my routine over the last few years allowing for the improvements in lighting.

Sticky Tongue Farms Miner All Indoor

Is a high quality human grade calcium based supplement with 50 vital minerals for bone health and strength including safe low levels of D3 (this is the only D3 supplement I use ) use this once a week under T5 lighting. 

Reptivite No D3

Is a multi vitamin which includes preformed vitamin A. Chameleons need preformed vitamin a in their vitamin routine. This helps to maintain eye and tongue health. It is not proven that they can gain all they need from betacarotinoids. I have seen the results of preformed Vitmain a not being given and it’s not pretty. This should be given once a fortnight. .

Arcadia Earth pro A

*** we have removed this supplement from the recommended routine as it has been found to cause edeama and is not very well suited to chameleons 

Arcadia Earth Pro Ca or miner all outdoor

Is a fine grade natural calcium powder. I use this for the other feeds not covered by the above supplements. Its really important to have a plain calcium as too much of other vitamins such as D3 and vitamin a can cause just as many issues as not including them whereas a little too much plain calcium can be got rid of by the chameleons system with less issues. Also if you keep female egg laying species giving extra plain calcium whilst their gravid aids with laying and keeping their calcium reserves up.

 Once a week for montane specie, most feeds (not covered by another supplement) for panthers and Yemen’s 

Verm X for reptiles

Verm x should be included in all species supplementation. It’s a powerful herbal blend that helps keeps parasites at bay. Given on 3 consecutive days once a month.

Repashy LoD

Repashy is an all in one supplement that contains low levels of D3. I do not use this supplement with my chameleons so I cant really comment but I do know that people do use it with success, I don’t like to just use one supplement as I don’t think it covers all things that need to be covered.

So that’s my supplement guide for chameleons, this and uvb lighting are the most important things to get correct to ensure a long healthy life for them. You can find the 3 products needed as a pack here https://buzzardreptile.co.uk/product/chameleon-supplement-pack/


chameleon supplements
the 3 needed supplements for chameleons
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How to look after a Jacksons chameleon

How to look after a Jacksons chameleon

How to look after a Jacksons chameleon is for jacksons, but also hoehnellis, sternfeldis and other montane species which come from high up in mountain ranges so they experience cooler temperatures, high humidity and high levels of uv radiation. Until recently a lot of people thought that they did not require high levels uv and kept them under substandard coil tubes. I find that a 12% t5 linear tube works well with these species but a cooler basking lamp is a must. I aim for 25-27c for adult montanes depending on the size of the species in question, this will of course be lower (if used at all) for babies, until their roughly 5:6 months and decent size I avoid using basking lamps and prefer to keep ambient at 20-21c during the day with no basking lamp as they can sit under it and dehydrate when small.

Whilst offering this high level of uvb it’s important to provide lots of foliage cover for them to get away from the uv once they have had enough. Lots of live plants also helps to keep the humidity up which is another important factor in montane care. Ideally humidity should peak at 90-95% when misted then dropping off to between 50 and 60% before the enclosure is misted again. It’s important to allow the enclosure to dry out before lights out to avoid respiratory issues. Mesh enclosures are a must for these types of chameleons they require the high airflow to stop the high humidity becoming an issue.

As with all chameleon species a varied and well gutloaded diet is needed. Supplement requirements for montane species are greatly reduced I use sticky tongue farms miner all indoor twice a week and reptivite no d3 once a fortnight.

A lot of montane species are oviparous or live bearing. This is a fascinating event to witness and is quite often missed as the female will usually start laying as soon as it begins to get light. The babies can be difficult to raise with little room for error on humidity or supplementation.

Another very important factor in keeping your montane chameleon happy is a good night time temperature drop as they would experience in their natural environment. I aim to get a good 10c below the daytime temperature. This can be tricky in summer months but you must endeavour to reduce the temperature as much as possible during the night. I use a cool mist humidifying fan in front of an open window. In the very warm months I add ice cubes to the water tank which helps to bring the temperature down to a couple of degrees below even the outside temperature!

Please check out my chameleon supplement guide here https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/ remember jacksons and other montane species need less supplements than panthers or yemens.

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Jackson Chameleon care guide

Jackson chameleon care guide

Jackson chameleon care guide is for species such as jacksons, hoehnellis and sternfeldis come from high up in mountain ranges so they experience cooler temperatures, high humidity and high levels of uv radiation. Until recently a lot of people thought that they did not require high levels uv and kept them under substandard coil tubes. I find that a 12% t5 linear tube works well with these species but a cooler basking lamp is a must. I aim for 25-27c for adult montanes depending on the size of the species in question, this will of course be lower (if used at all) for babies, until their roughly 5:6 months and decent size I avoid using basking lamps and prefer to keep ambient at 20-21c during the day with no basking lamp as they can sit under it and dehydrate when small.

Whilst offering this high level of uvb it’s important to provide lots of foliage cover for them to get away from the uv once they have had enough. Lots of live plants also helps to keep the humidity up which is another important factor in montane care. Ideally humidity should peak at 90-95% when misted then dropping off to between 50 and 60% before the enclosure is misted again. It’s important to allow the enclosure to dry out before lights out to avoid respiratory issues. Mesh enclosures are a must for these types of chameleons they require the high airflow to stop the high humidity becoming an issue.

As with all chameleon species a varied and well gutloaded diet is needed. Supplement requirements for montane species are greatly reduced I use sticky tongue farms miner all indoor twice a week and reptivite no d3 once a fortnight.

A lot of montane species are oviparous or live bearing. This is a fascinating event to witness and is quite often missed as the female will usually start laying as soon as it begins to get light. The babies can be difficult to raise with little room for error on humidity or supplementation.

Another very important factor in keeping your montane chameleon happy is a good night time temperature drop as they would experience in their natural environment. I aim to get a good 10c below the daytime temperature. This can be tricky in summer months but you must endeavour to reduce the temperature as much as possible during the night. I use a cool mist humidifying fan in front of an open window. In the very warm months I add ice cubes to the water tank which helps to bring the temperature down to a couple of degrees below even the outside temperature!

Please check out my chameleon supplement guide here https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/ remember jacksons and other montane species need less supplements than panthers or yemens.

jackson chameleon
a male Jackson I bred

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4 star licensed breeder

4 star licensed breeder.

Here at pretty scaley things I have successfully passed the local councils animal activities licence with flying colours to the highest possible level for breeding chameleons and hognose snakes. I am very proud to have achieved the maximum possible star rating for my first time licence. The star rating is based on exceeding minimum enclosure sizes, regular temperature and uvb tube output monitoring and knowledge of care of the species I work with. Its been a long, eventful and chamtastic adventure to get here and I look forward to many more years of providing exceptional quality chameleons to their new owners. helping new keepers on their chameleon journey is as much fun for me as it is for them! Being a 4 star licensed breeder you know you are being well looked after and going  to get the best quality new pet. I’m always happy to provide setup advice and ongoing care advice throughout the animals life.  I also recommend you join our super active group on facebook Chameleons UK  https://www.facebook.com/groups/990611074356866%MCEPASTEBIN%

Your new pet will soon also come with a discount voucher for exotic pet insurance should you wish to take advantage of that

Please contact us for current availability

4 star licensed breeder
when all your hard work pays off