My first ever baby tamatave panther chameleon hatched today
7 beautiful big babies born here today. Nature sure is amazing I feel so lucky to have these animals in my life every single day
Filling feeder insects with good, nutritious food before feedingGutloading:
Filling feeder insects with good, nutritious food before feeding them off to your chameleons. The better the gut-load and variety of feeder insects offered the better chance your chameleon has to reach his/her full potential. You want to avoid foods that are high in oxalic acid because it binds to the calcium, magnesium, iron, sodium and potassium and interferes with the absorption of these in the body. Which means even if your using a calcium supplement it won’t be properly utilized in your chameleons’ body.
Below is a list of foods to keep in mind when grocery shopping and others to avoid completely when putting together your own gut-load.
I also make a super nutritious dry gutload to complement the wet gutload
This is available from the shop section of the site
Wet Gut-load Ingredients: (these should be your primary ingredients in your gut-load)
Squash (butternut, spaghetti),
Hibiscus leaves and flowers
A few blueberries
Small amounts of raspberries
Small pieces of steamed and cooled yam
Dry Gut-loading Ingredients:(Smaller portion of your gut-load and will need to be well blended in a coffee grinder)
Organic raw sunflower seeds
Dehydrated cranberry powder
Ground dried hibiscus
Small amounts of ground Brazil nuts
Small amounts of ground/chopped beechnuts
Small occasional pieces of oak leaves
Small amounts of kale powder
Items that should be limited in your gut load (some are fine but these times should not be regular items in your gut load):
Gut loading ingredients that should be avoided (are heavy sources of animal protein and/or fat and may provide excessive preformed vitamin A and also D):
Super hot day in the UK today
It’s important to be aware of your species maximum temperature tolerances and bring down temperatures as needed in these hot spells
I keep some species that prefer cooler climates they do handle the short spells of heat we get here but it’s important to get a good night time temperature drop
Albino Arctic hognose
The baby hoehnelli are coming on beautifully
These are mount Kenya locale and about half way to being ready to go
4 months old and looking stunning I have a few of these girls left. Please contact for further information
Montane species Chameleon care sheet
Montane species chameleon care is for species such as jacksons, hoehnellis and sternfeldis come from high up in mountain ranges so they experience cooler temperatures, high humidity and high levels of uv radiation. Until recently a lot of people thought that they did not require high levels uv and kept them under substandard coil tubes. I find that a 12% t5 linear tube https://buzzardreptile.co.uk/product/arcadia-pro-t5-uvb-kit-desert-12-uvb-24-watt-copy/ works well with these species but a cooler basking lamp is a must. I aim for 25-27c for adult montanes depending on the size of the species in question, this will of course be lower (if used at all) for babies, until their roughly 5:6 months and decent size I avoid using basking lamps and prefer to keep ambient at 20-21c during the day with no basking lamp as they can sit under it and dehydrate when small.
Whilst offering this high level of uvb it’s important to provide lots of foliage cover for them to get away from the uv once they have had enough. Lots of live plants also helps to keep the humidity up which is another important factor in montane care. Ideally humidity should peak at 90-95% when misted then dropping off to between 50 and 60% before the enclosure is misted again. It’s important to allow the enclosure to dry out before lights out to avoid respiratory issues. Mesh enclosures are a must for these types of chameleons they require the high airflow to stop the high humidity becoming an issue.
As with all chameleon species a varied and well gutloaded diet is needed. Supplement requirements for montane species are greatly reduced I use sticky tongue farms miner all indoor twice a week and reptivite no d3 once a fortnight.
A lot of montane species are oviparous or live bearing. This is a fascinating event to witness and is quite often missed as the female will usually start laying as soon as it begins to get light. The babies can be difficult to raise with little room for error on humidity or supplementation.
Another very important factor in keeping your montane chameleon happy is a good night time temperature drop as they would experience in their natural environment. I aim to get a good 10c below the daytime temperature. This can be tricky in summer months but you must endeavour to reduce the temperature as much as possible during the night. I use a cool mist humidifying fan in front of an open window. In the very warm months I add ice cubes to the water tank which helps to bring the temperature down to a couple of degrees below even the outside temperature!
Please check out my chameleon supplement guide here https://www.prettyscaleythings.com/2020/01/15/supplement-guide-for-chameleons/ remember jacksons and other montane species need less supplements than panthers or yemens.